The point isn’t to find a flawless house — it doesn’t exist. The point is to buy with your eyes open, so nothing on this property surprises you after you own it.
An inspection isn’t a deal-killer. It’s leverage and information, and both work in your favour. Done right, inspection day is where you either confirm you’re making a good decision or gain the facts to renegotiate one. Let’s make it count.
Be there, and be engaged. Attend the whole thing — it can run a few hours. Seeing issues firsthand, with the inspector explaining them on the spot, is worth far more than reading about them later.
Choose a qualified inspector. Reputation and relevant certifications matter. If the home has something unusual — an older structure, a rural well, a flood-zone location — get someone who knows that specifically.
Understand what’s in scope. A standard inspection covers visible, accessible components — not inside walls, not septic tanks, not behind the electrical panel. Ask whether any specialized inspections are worth adding.
Bring your own list. Note anything you spotted during viewings — settling, water stains, a soft floor — and hand it to the inspector so those spots get a hard look.
Document everything. Notes, photos, video — especially for spots you won’t easily reach again, like the roof or a crawl space.
Then read the report like it matters. Sort findings into minor, major, and deal-breaker. Talk the major ones through with your agent or a contractor so you understand real costs, not worst-case fears.
A printable checklist plus the exact questions to ask about each of the 10 areas — so you walk in prepared and walk out with answers, not just a report. Pop in your email and it’s yours.
Any cracks, settling, or uneven floors? What do they mean and what’s the fix?
How many years left? Any past or present leaks? Is the insulation and ventilation up to par?
Age and condition of the pipes, water pressure, any corrosion. Ask about polybutylene or lead in an older home.
Is the system to current standard? What’s the panel’s capacity — can it handle future additions?
Age, condition, and expected lifespan of the heating and cooling, plus energy efficiency.
Age and capacity.
Source, severity, and solution for anything found. This is the one that quietly costs the most.
In older homes, ask. Both require specialized, sometimes costly removal.
Ask the inspector to look specifically; sometimes a separate pest inspection is warranted.
Does water move away from the house, or toward it? Landscaping and slope tell the story.
Categorize, price the big items, and decide with your agent: proceed, renegotiate, or walk. A clear-eyed report is exactly what gives you the standing to do any of the three.
I’ll help you tell a real concern from a routine note — and use what the inspection finds.
Mike Seal · 226-773-4918 · mikesealsells@gmail.com
Yes — plan to attend the whole thing, even though it can take a few hours. Being there lets you see issues firsthand and get the inspector’s explanation on the spot, which is far more useful than reading about a problem in a report days later. Bring your own list of anything you noticed during viewings so those spots get extra attention.
A standard inspection covers the visible, accessible components: foundation and structure, roof, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, water heater, and signs of moisture or pests. It generally does not cover what’s hidden — inside walls, septic tanks, or behind the electrical panel. If the home has unusual features or you have specific concerns, ask whether a specialized inspection is worth adding.
Often, yes — if your offer included an inspection condition. A report that surfaces significant issues gives you standing to ask for a price adjustment, repairs, or to walk away, depending on what’s found. That’s exactly why the inspection condition is one you should think hard about before waiving.
